Locali affini a Nonos by Paul Pairet

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V, the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood, no meat.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V, the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room, recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop, relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.