Locali affini a Poilâne

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster, since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram, boutique and salon

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.