Locali affini a Poilâne

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.

The 7e roastery that started Paris's specialty-coffee third wave in 2011.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name, 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.