Locali affini a Yard

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008 — David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter — Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

The Ritz's wood-paneled cocktail room — bookless reservations and a serious dry martini

Mahogany expat bar from 1911 — birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The 2007 Sentier speakeasy that built modern Paris cocktail culture — still no reservations