Plekken in Çeşme

Diyarbakır charcoal craft married to the Aegean, with daily homemade meze from the owner's wife

A corner garden of lemon trees where the serpme stays classic and the pişi keeps coming, no bazaar-street theatre attached

A year-round roaster that treats single origins as the whole point

The Sezginer family puts up a wholly organic morning under their own vines, pouring grape juice pressed from grapes you can reach up and pick