Le Verre Volé

On rue de Lancry a few minutes from the canal, Le Verre Volé has been one of the natural-wine reference points in Paris since well before natural wine was a marketing category. The bottles line the walls, the bar is short, the kitchen behind the bottles sends out a daily-changing menu of seasonal small plates and bistro standards. The list runs to 400 references with depth in low-intervention France and Italy. It's an institution that hasn't started behaving like one — the energy is still tight, the pricing is still fair, and reservations are still imperative. The team also runs a wine-shop counter for takeaway.