Wine Bar in Paris

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal, visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Marble-clad tapas-and-wine room next to the old Chateaubriand, Rem Koolhaas interior, natural-wine list.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

The Marais corner where natural wine, oysters and serious cocktails collapse into one room.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.