Une Glace à Paris

When Emmanuel Ryon, the only French Meilleur Ouvrier de France glacier and a former World Pastry Champion, opened a salon dedicated entirely to ice cream in the Marais in 2015, it ended the question of where Paris's most exacting frozen dessert lives. The shop is small, the textures are extraordinary, and the work runs all year — frozen pâtisserie, vacherins, single-estate sorbets — not just summer cones. For an Istanbullu used to dondurma Maraş done with conviction, this is the Paris translation of obsessive technique applied to one product. No peer in the city.