Classic in Çeşme

Michelin Guide-listed family osteria a few streets from the castle, serving day-boat fish and meze without the marina markup

Sertan's small seafood room on the Yıldızburnu cape, water-edge tables, sharp kitchen, prices that still make sense by Çeşme standards

The Yılmaz family's Çiftlikköy seafront since 2009, the quietest Çeşme fish table looking across to Sakız

Thirty-seven local boutique bottles in the village's hundred-year priest's house, fireplace, three rooms upstairs, the bar that built the wine reputation