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Mansion-style Cretan cuisine a block from Peskesi

Wood-fire farm taverna cooking only over fire from its own land

Stone-oven Cretan institution in the centre of Vamos

Clay-pot-over-coals taverna under the plane tree in Gavalochori

Cretan-Ottoman cooking in a 600-year-old hammam off Splantzia

Forgotten Cretan recipes reworked for the modern table

Greek-Levantine cooking down a Splantzia alley with a steam-bath well

The Splantzia seafood mezedopoleio locals queue for

Gourmet-awarded Cretan home cooking in a century-old house

Cretan cooking on hot bricks in a 1900 old-town house

Fireplace-warm Cretan taverna for a local clientele

Grocer-meze-room on the restored square of Archanes

The locals' seafood ouzeri by the Venetian port

A modern rakadiko where locals actually eat

Cliffside Cretan plates beneath the Fortezza

Tiny market-driven kitchen, the chef's daily haul is the menu

Cretan cooking inside Venetian-Ottoman ruins, open to the sky

All-day Greek bistro blending Hellenic and Levantine flavours