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Lisbon's oldest restaurant, Pessoa's café since 1782

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Chef Hugo Brito's deconstructed Portugal in a former Alfama butcher shop

Thirty-year river-terrace dining room above Santa Apolónia

Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique

Lisbon's credible Anatolian room, an all-women kitchen

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Wood-fired Mediterranean, vinyl and natural wine in quiet Lapa

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Vitor Sobral's reinvented corner tavern

Brazilian-founded restaurant, bar and gallery for sharing plates

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners