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The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Ground-zero natural-wine deli, cellar and bar

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Twelve-seat temple to Portuguese low-intervention wine