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Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Lisbon's oldest restaurant, Pessoa's café since 1782

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace