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Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley

Nun-run canteen with one of Lisbon's best secret views

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

Vitor Sobral's reinvented corner tavern

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

Thirty-year river-terrace dining room above Santa Apolónia

Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais