Le Dauphin

Le Dauphin opened in 2010 next door to Le Chateaubriand as a wine-bar-tapas counterpart to the famous tasting room. The interior — all polished Carrara marble, designed by Rem Koolhaas's office — became almost as famous as the food. The kitchen sends out small plates that change weekly; the wine list runs deep into natural and low-intervention France. Ownership has shifted in recent years following Iñaki Aizpitarte's reshuffle, but the room and the formula remain. It still works for a long aperitif before dinner elsewhere, or as the dinner itself with three plates and a bottle.