Restaurant in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop — relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

The 11e's reference bistro — steak-frites, soufflé, white tablecloths and zero affectation.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The 1896 original — Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Madeleine institution since 1927 — the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois — controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument — Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Contemporary Lebanese on rue de la Banque — Liza Asseily's Beirut-Paris dialogue

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Slavic luxe in a 1910 Art Nouveau hôtel particulier — Paris Society's caviar address.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy — the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas — Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.