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The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard