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1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes, 45 years of haute French classicism.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro, spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark, Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star, 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes