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The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard