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Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Vegetable-driven neo-bistro with a 400-bottle wine list and savoury-leaning desserts.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table — raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal — visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.