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Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood, no meat.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens, the sauce-extraction reference.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles, chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street, chef-driven, value-strong tasting

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière, a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.