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Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles — chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Vegetable-driven neo-bistro with a 400-bottle wine list and savoury-leaning desserts.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro — fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.