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Arcangelo Dandini's elevated Roman bistrot

Antonio Ziantoni's measured, classically-grounded one-star tucked behind Trastevere

Family-run Marche kitchen, a Monti institution since the 1970s

Natural-wine enoteca and bistrot by Teatro Palladium

Third-generation Roman trattoria a few metres from the Pantheon

Deli, wine cellar and serious kitchen in one room near Campo de' Fiori

Italo-French cooking in an intimate set of rooms off the Pantheon

Sarah Cicolini's offal-forward Roman trattoria, nose-to-tail and serious

Cult Monti natural-wine enoteca with a real kitchen

Pier Daniele Seu's contemporary-pizza laboratory on the Trastevere fringe

Bib Gourmand Roman trattoria anchoring the Ostiense food district

Chef-led Peruvian cooking by Piazza Dante in Esquilino

The quinto-quarto cathedral carved into Monte Testaccio

1936 osteria famed for tableside cacio e pepe

One-star winter-garden cooking on the Aventino edge

Catalani family taberna reviving ancient Roman recipes in old Trastevere

Cristina Bowerman's Michelin-starred creative kitchen in a Trastevere backstreet

Owner-chefs' minimalist lab a step from the Pantheon