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Bodrum's only real Spanish house — Neco's San Sebastián tapas on a 300-year-old stone street

A small Adliye Sokak family kitchen, a meze tray and a chalkboard fish list — and a returning crowd that knows the names

A long-running fish house at the western Bodrum harbour, with a serious raki sofrası

The 1983 stone-house jazz bar where Yeni Türkü and Erkan Oğur played before anyone had heard of them

A bougainvillea-shaded hilltop terrace that has been the Gümüşlük sunset for two decades

The first table on the Gümüşlük iskele since 1962, still run by the family

A quieter alternative on the Gümüşlük iskele, run by a fishing family

An understated Bitez seafront fish house that runs to the proper meyhane register

Tilkicik Cove's original fish house, on its own jetty since 1993 and still family-run

Yalıkavak's original family fish kitchen, opened in the early 1980s and still on the same corner

The Gümüşlük meze house's Türkbükü sister, on Liman Caddesi with thirty cold and hot starters

The Akyarlar harbour fish house run by the same family since 1986, with Kos a sunset away across the strait

Torba's classic family fish house, on the Kilise bay since 1987 and open through the off-season

Mehmet and Tülin Çuhadar's seafood room at Milta Marina; Bodrum's reference fish house since the early 2000s

Erhan Usta's fish house on the Gümüşlük iskele since 1983, still the chef's name on the door

A direct-on-the-water Gümüşlük fish room with the boats and Rabbit Island a metre from the table

A Gümüşlük classic since 1990, fish-grill room on the Yalı Mevkii with the same logic three decades on

The Yalıçiftlik fisherman's room — tables set directly in the shallows, the day's fish off the boat, the family Mustafa Bey runs to a fifteen-cover register.

Small rakı-balık room on Müskebi Caddesi, grilled octopus and prawn casserole as house signatures.

MICHELIN Guide modern kebab — the most ambitious kitchen in Bitez, kebab as fine-dining grammar.