Στέκια in London

A patinated 18th-century courtroom turned dining room — Clerkenwell's most photographed kitchen

A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches — chef Steve Williams

Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter — Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro — the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Adriana Cavita's Marylebone Mexican — generous, regional, unfussy

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı — kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria — al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter — Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

Moxon Street's cheese reference since 1992 — Patricia Michelson's affineur, walk-in tasting room

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944 — pasta as Italian commute

The fresh-pasta queue London actually accepts — Shoreditch sister of the Borough original

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse — the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to

Endo Kazutoshi's Notting Hill casual — sushi without the omakase ceremony