Στέκια in Naples

Naples' most-decorated dough, second-best pizzeria in Italy

Ciro Salvo's featherweight dough on Piazza Sannazaro

Tutino brothers' tradition-rooted pizza on Piazza Mercato

Ciro Oliva's Sanità pizzeria, neighbourhood made gastronomy

Enzo Coccia's scholarly take on Neapolitan pizza

Bib Gourmand comfort cooking by the Riviera di Chiaia gardens

The historic-centre room that made ragù its whole religion

Contemporary pizza on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore

Tiny natural-wine room on the Gradoni di Chiaia

Raffaele Bonetta's contemporary pizza, now in the Vomero