Restaurant in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

The 1896 original, Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon, Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Madeleine institution since 1927, the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique, Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

Mexican street-food institution on rue Eugène Varlin, Canal Saint-Martin's handmade-tortilla bench since 2011.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois, controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The Directoire mansion with the retractable roof, a multi-decade Paris institution off the Champs-Élysées.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument, Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Two Michelin since 1946, the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Slavic luxe in a 1910 Art Nouveau hôtel particulier, Paris Society's caviar address.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Philippe Starck's Mediterranean ground-floor in Evok's 16e flagship.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Marais Korean BBQ, chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.