Στέκια in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

Female-led cocktail bar with bi-fold windows on the Belleville-Canal axis, zero pretension, real depth.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal, visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie, the Equinoxe was born here

République speakeasy hidden behind a working laundromat, push the right washing-machine door, climb the staircase.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter, Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars, 250+ cuvées.