Friedrichshain

East of Mitte across the Spree, Friedrichshain holds the East Side Gallery (the longest surviving stretch of the Wall, painted), the Boxhagener Platz Saturday flea-and-food market, Simon-Dach-Straße's restaurant strip and the post-industrial clubs around Warschauer Straße (Berghain sits on the Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg border). The gezgin uses the hood for the casual dinner that runs late, the East-Berlin context walk along the Wall and the post-club brunch the next day. Less polished than Charlottenburg, more lived-in than Mitte's tourist axis.