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Castelvetro di Modena
Hilltop acetaia dining over its own balsamico barrels
Spigaroli's riverside estate, world's finest culatello, one star
A 14th-century Po-river customs court that the Spigaroli brothers turned into a complete pilgrimage: a one-Michelin-star kitchen reading the 'gastrofluvial' Bassa Parmense, cellars where the world's most coveted culatello ages in the river fog, and a Culatello Museum. Massimo Spigaroli, whose great-grandfather farmed for Giuseppe Verdi, cooks pork from the family farm and produce from the estate gardens. The casual Hosteria del Maiale sits opposite for those after the trattoria register.
The starred dining room is the destination; book the cellar-and-museum visit alongside it. Stay over in the Palazzo delle Due Torri relais to do it properly.
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