Il Santo Bevitore
Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002
The bohemian heart of the Oltrarno, where the piazza and basilica anchor an evening the locals still own.
The bohemian core of the Oltrarno gathers around Brunelleschi's austere basilica and the piazza that fills with locals at dusk. This is aperitivo and natural-wine territory, with Zeb's tasting counter up the hill in San Niccolò and the inventive cooking at Essenziale near Cestello within easy reach. Unlike the centre, the evening here still belongs to the people who live in it.
4 places
Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002
Simone Cipriani's open-kitchen counter cooking by Cestello
1956 family trattoria, the homecooked heart of Santo Spirito
Storied Piazza della Passera trattoria with its famous pear fiocchetti
6 places
Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates
Carpenter's-workshop cafe-bar on Piazza Santo Spirito with live music
Cult San Frediano craft-cocktail bar with an irreverent list
Hidden 1920s-speakeasy cocktail bar off Santo Spirito
Sibling-run natural-wine kitchen near Piazza Santo Spirito
Boutique enoteca facing Palazzo Pitti, 3,000 labels deep
1 place