Editorial
In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Florence's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
Cross the Ponte Vecchio and the city loosens its shoulders. The left bank is where Florence still eats for itself — trattorie with no English menu, wine bars that close when the regulars go home.
Read storyA proper bistecca alla fiorentina is a short list of non-negotiables: the right cut, a fierce fire, and the confidence to leave it rare. Around it sits the rest of the Tuscan canon — ribollita, peposo, the cucina povera done without apology.
Read storyTuscany taught the world to take Sangiovese seriously. A younger Florence is now rewriting the rules in the glass — low-intervention bottles, tiny growers, and enoteche that treat wine as a living thing rather than a label.
Read storyTen minutes east of the Duomo, the crowds thin and the city goes back to work. Sant'Ambrogio is Florence's real market quarter — a covered hall, a morning produce square, and the restaurants that have fed the neighbourhood for decades.
Read storyFlorence's true street food is not a slice of pizza — it is a tripe sandwich, eaten standing at a cart, dipped in its own broth. Lampredotto is the city's most honest dish, and learning to order it is a small initiation.
Read storyFlorence has never chased stars the way Milan or Modena have, but a small tier of ambitious kitchens now cooks at the level the critics watch. Here is where the fine dining is worth the ceremony — and where it is worth a caveat.
Read story