O Velho Eurico
Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn
The lived-in hill where fado was born, full of steep lanes, terraces and tascas.
Climbing the hill north of the castle, Graça and Mouraria are the parts of Lisbon that never tidied themselves up for visitors, and are better for it. Mouraria is where fado was born and where dozens of nationalities now share the same steep lanes, market stalls and tiny tascas. Graça above it offers wide terraces and miradouros where locals drink at sunset rather than queue for photographs. This is the city at its most lived-in: laundry overhead, a guitar somewhere, the smell of grilled fish.
10 places
Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn
The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best
Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley
Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs
Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen
Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together
Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room
Thirty-year river-terrace dining room above Santa Apolónia
Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique
Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais
2 places