Places in Bastille, Charonne & Oberkampf

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Marble-clad tapas-and-wine room next to the old Chateaubriand, Rem Koolhaas interior, natural-wine list.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.