Romantic in Çeşme

On the water's edge of antique Erythrai, three generations of family balıkçı in the peninsula's quiet north

An 1800s Hacımemiş courtyard under the olive trees, the village's most romantic stone-house dining room

Sertan's small seafood room on the Yıldızburnu cape, water-edge tables, sharp kitchen, prices that still make sense by Çeşme standards

Vineyard restaurant where Foça Karası, a 2,600-year-old grape, is served alongside Cabernet from the same hillside