Albion

Two Fish La Boissonnerie alumni — chef Matthew Ong from England, sommelier Hayden Clout from New Zealand — opened Albion in late 2011 and have run it on the same lines since: stone walls, an open kitchen, wooden wine crates lining the room, a list weighted toward small French growers. The cooking is bistro-modern with a quiet Italian thread (housemade pasta, well-aged cheeses), executed cleanly and without theatrics. It's a Monday-to-Friday operation, which keeps the noise down. The room is small and the regulars are loyal. Reservations recommended.