Restaurant in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul — twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Counter-seat Korean — chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy — the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street — Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.