Lugares in Paris

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903 — Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961 — still family-run, still the standard.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster — since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon

LVMH's Samaritaine flagship with three-Michelin Plénitude, Dior Spa Cheval Blanc and a 30-meter pool.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

12 rooms, all looking onto Place des Vosges — Evok Collection's quietest, most contemplative Paris address.

Mahogany expat bar from 1911 — birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

Boutique design hotel inside a former metals factory — concrete, courtyard, cocktail bar at the centre.

Laurent Taïeb's reborn 1888 central post office with rooftop ROOF and Eiffel-facing terraces.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Châtelet jazz club since 1984 — 300+ concerts a year, free Friday-Saturday midnight jam.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Tuileries-facing Dorchester palace with Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse and Cédric Grolet pastry.

5-star hideaway behind ivy on Place des Vosges — 56 rooms, a courtyard, a Michelin-starred restaurant.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument — Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Art Deco palace on rue Saint-Honoré — 14m pool, garden courtyard, Cédric Grolet's pastry boutique

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

France's oldest tea house since 1854 — the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Jean-Louis Deniot-designed Evok hotel facing Comédie-Française, with Brasserie Réjane and a marble pool.

Place Vendôme palace by Ed Tuttle with Michelin-starred Pur' and a contemporary art-hung corridor.

1898 Place Vendôme palace — Coco Chanel's home, Hemingway's bar, Espadon's dining room

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes