Café Hawelka

Leopold and Josefine Hawelka opened the kaffeehaus on Dorotheergasse in 1939, closed for the war, and reopened in 1945 to become the centre of Vienna's post-war literary and artistic scene — H.C. Artmann, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, Oskar Werner, Helmut Qualtinger and André Heller all spent serial evenings here. The room is small, dark, smoke-aged in the texture if not in fact, the walls covered in original drawings and posters from the regular customers. Leopold died in 2011 at 100; the grandchildren now run the room and have kept it deliberately unchanged. Josefine's Buchteln — the sweet yeast buns filled with plum jam — come out of the oven at 22:00 every night and are the kaffeehaus's load-bearing late-night order.