Moro

Farringdon Road's Grade II 1869 working-class chop house — Shaun Searley's revival of the listed-bench institution.

Fergus Henderson's nose-to-tail manifesto since 1994 — the white-walled Smithfield room that wrote modern British cooking.

Northern Chinese on level 33 of The Shard — the view-room and the dish where guests in town for a single weekend take their out-of-town parents.

London's oldest restaurant — Maiden Lane since 1798, four families across ten reigns, and the game-and-claret Britain that has not changed.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant — open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

JKS Restaurants' two-Michelin-star Indian on Albemarle Street — Trishna's older Mayfair sister and the standard against which the rest measure themselves.