Mediterranean in Athens

Pangrati five-chef collective, contemporary-Greek, Bib Gourmand, the city's most-booked Tuesday.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Koukaki rising small-plate room, modern-Greek, Acropolis-side, the chapter's Koukaki anchor.

Mitropoleos all-day food hall and hotel, produce market, day-bakery, modern-Greek dining counter.

Onassis Cultural Centre rooftop, Tasos Mantis' one-Michelin modern-Greek tasting room.

Psyrri taverna, regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.