Locali in Athens

Pangrati five-chef collective — contemporary-Greek, Bib Gourmand, the city's most-booked Tuesday.

Kifissia French-Greek tasting room — Hervé Pronzato's one-Michelin star.

Pangrati taverna since 1926 — barrel retsina, paper-tablecloth classics, the institution.

Plaka souvlaki stall since 1946 — six stools, a charcoal grill, the canonical pita.

Psyrri taverna — regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.

Pangrati mezedopoleio — the city's most-booked Bib Gourmand small-plates room.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant — the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Working-class pork-chop room since 1955 — Evripidou Street, one dish, the institution.

Praxitelous all-day cocktail bar — top-50-bar canon, Athens' canonical drinks address.

Athens institution since 1920 — Piraeus-port origin, contemporary chef-led set menu, family fourth generation.