Beloved in Çeşme

A neon-lit courtyard bar that runs on regulars, not reservations for show

An Italian gelataio who fell for the Aegean and now churns the peninsula's most honest gelato off a Hacimemis corner

Three generations of Aegean mastic worked off one Ugur Mumcu counter since 1945, sakizli dondurma, kurabiye and jams from the source

Diyarbakır charcoal craft married to the Aegean, with daily homemade meze from the owner's wife