Lina Stores

The pistachio-green storefront on Brewer Street has been selling fresh pasta, cured meats and Italian groceries since 1944, when Lina Filippi opened a counter for Soho's Italian community. The deli is still the soul of the operation, order a panino, watch the women behind the glass roll tortellini, but a small dining room behind it serves what the deli sells, plated. The same family group has expanded to King's Cross, Marylebone and Greek Street, but Brewer Street is the original and the one to choose. The tagliarini with crab and Amalfi lemon is the tell, Italian restraint, no shortcuts, priced for daily use.