Locali in London

Anne-Sophie Pic's two-Michelin-star Four Seasons dining room, the Valence three-star register, in the City.

Pierre Gagnaire's three-Michelin-star Mayfair drawing room, the most theatrical fine-dining address in W1.

JKS Restaurants' two-Michelin-star Indian on Albemarle Street, Trishna's older Mayfair sister and the standard against which the rest measure themselves.

Three Michelin stars in the panelled drawing room of Mayfair's most discreet hotel, the defining London fine-dining address.

Agostino Perrone's silver-trolley martini and a room that has spent a decade at or near the top of the World's 50 Best Bars list.

Rafael Cagali's two-Michelin-star tasting room inside the Town Hall Hotel, Bethnal Green's destination kitchen.

The Berkeley's pastry counter, Grolet's first London room, the trompe-l'œil fruits the audience has only seen on Instagram

Henrietta Street's modern British room from the Kitty Fisher's team, clubby, candle-lit, opera-night reliable.

Beirut's Mireille Hayek inside Harrods, the polished Lebanese set-menu room that translates Em Sherif Beirut's standard for SW1.

St Martin's Court's 1890s seafood institution, Theatreland's pre-curtain Dover sole

Endo Kazutoshi's rooftop Japanese inside Raffles at the OWO, the operating Endo room while Endo at the Rotunda rebuilds after the 2025 fire.

London's oldest restaurant, Maiden Lane since 1798, four families across ten reigns, and the game-and-claret Britain that has not changed.

Mount Street seafood and the city's most consequential lunch crowd, the Mayfair set-piece.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

Since 1742, Jermyn Street oysters, game in season, and a clubland Britain that has stopped existing almost everywhere else.