Locali in London

Tomos Parry's Basque-grill flagship — whole turbot over wood, the room that reset East London cooking

The Dirik family ocakbaşı since 1994 — the canonical Turkish address the audience takes London-Turks to

The wine-magazine bar — Mark Andrew and Daniel Keeling's Bloomsbury original since 2015

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı — kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999 — the polished mainstream of London Turkish

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990 — BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

The larger Greek Street sister — 2020 in the former Gay Hussar room, with a proper kitchen

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse — the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to