Locali in Madrid

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

1827 taberna on Cervantes' old street

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

Reborn 1950s vermouth tavern on an 8-metre marble bar

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

Specialty-coffee espresso bar in Salamanca

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Bohemian all-day kitchen with a Michelin-pedigree hand

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

The credible Turkish kitchen Madrid actually has

Salamanca's real neighbourhood food market

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

The canonical Spanish painting collection — Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps — eight centuries on one walk

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

A former adult cinema reborn as a cultural bar-cinema

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Cava Baja vermut taberna with the secret 'Manuela' pour, since 1996

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark