Locali affini a Early June

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars, 250+ cuvées.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.