Locali affini a Coutume Café

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil, Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Paris's oldest chocolate shop since 1800, Marie Antoinette's chemist's listed boutique on rue des Saints-Pères

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.