Plekken in Paris

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie, the Equinoxe was born here

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.